51 pages • 1 hour read
A modern alternative to SparkNotes and CliffsNotes, SuperSummary offers high-quality Study Guides with detailed chapter summaries and analysis of major themes, characters, and more.
Content Warning: This section includes graphic descriptions of injury and suffering, intense psychological distress, themes of mortality, and existential crisis.
In 1985, British mountaineers Joe Simpson and Simon Yates were in the Cordillera Huayhuash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. They had set up a base camp at 15,000 feet on a dry riverbed, 28 miles from the nearest village. Their camp was surrounded by the snowy peaks of the Cerro Sarapo, Yeupaja, and Rasac. Having completed training climbs to acclimatize to the conditions, Simpson and Yates planned to attempt the 21,000-foot West face of Siula Grande. The mountain was first climbed in 1936 via the North Ridge. However, no one had ever successfully summited the West face.
Simpson and Yates were accompanied by Richard Hawking, whom they met in Lima. Richard was traveling around South America but was not a mountaineer. During the two-day trek to base camp, he was unwell. Trailing behind, he told Simpson and Yates to go ahead while he rested. He spent the night in a pigsty near a hut occupied by two Peruvian teenage sisters, Gloria and Norma, and their younger siblings. Having joined his companions, he planned to stay in camp while Simpson and Yates climbed.
The account begins from Simpson’s first-person perspective. He felt safe in his tent, although he could hear avalanches in the nearby mountains. In his diary, Simpson described the “menacingly remote and exhilarating” landscape (16). He relished the isolation, contrasting it with the Alps, where other climbers and rescue helicopters disrupt the peace.
Simpson and Yates set off for Rosario Norte to acclimatize to the altitude. Simpson worried about the weather conditions as the typically fine mornings had turned into snowstorms by the afternoon, increasing the risk of avalanches. Yates dismissed his concerns, and Simpson envied his friend’s carefree attitude. During the climb, they caught their first glimpse of Siula Grande. However, it started to snow, and they headed back to base camp without reaching the summit. They spent the evening in the tent laughing, telling stories, and playing cards.
Next, Simpson and Yates planned to attempt the South Ridge of Cerro Yantauri, which had never been climbed. They intended to use bivi tents (covered sleeping bags) to test the conditions during the climb. However, the sky looked ominous, threatening a storm. Instead, they decided to visit Norma and Gloria to see if they could buy fresh supplies. Richard spoke Spanish and learned that the girls stayed in the huts when they herded their father’s cattle to higher ground. The children helped tend and milk the cattle. Gloria and Norma arranged for their older brother, Spinoza, to deliver more supplies to base camp in a few days.
The next day, Simpson and Yates attempted Yantauri. The climb started badly because they encountered rock falls on the mountain’s screes. That evening, they slept in their bivi tents on an exposed ridge. It snowed all night, but a storm never materialized. The next day, they reached 18,000 feet, but the deep, powdery snow and large cornices (unstable snowy overhangs) made summiting dangerous. When Simpson fell through a fissure, they gave up and returned to camp.
Two days later, Simpson and Yates attempted the South Ridge of the Seria Norte, which (like Yantauri) had never been climbed. However, they again gave up because of powdery snow and the dangerous cornices hanging above them.
Simpson and Yates decided they were ready for Siula Grande. Yates estimated that it would take them a maximum of five days to ascend and return to camp. He joked that Richard could keep their equipment if they did not return within a week. Because their rucksacks were heavy, they left their bivi tents and relied on sleeping in snow holes. Richard wanted to accompany them to the glacier. However, when they reached the boulders and scree of the moraines at the bottom of the climb, Yates advised Richard not to go further. Before leaving, Richard took their photograph, joking that it would be valuable if they died. After Simpson and Yates climbed an ice cliff to reach the first glacier, they spent the night in a snow hole.
The next day, Simpson and Yates planned to climb an almost vertical ice wall rising from the glacier and a steep ice couloir (gully) before digging a snow cave to sleep in. During the roped climb, which they alternately led, they were showered with ice and rocks. By the time they reached the couloir, the light was already fading, and Simpson assessed the ice as unstable. He suggested sleeping where they were, but there were no suitable ledges. As it grew dark, they began to climb the couloir, using ropes and ice axes. Simpson led and belayed Yates, who berated him for being slow. By 10 o’clock at night, the temperature was minus 15 degrees given the wind chill.
Yates found a snow cave to spend the night in, but Simpson worried about its stability. He remembered climbing the Bonatti Pillar in Chamonix two years earlier. He and his climbing partner, Ian Whitaker, slept on a four-foot-wide ledge underneath a large overhang that appeared to be solid. The ledge gave way during the night, and only their safety line, attached to a ring peg in the rock, saved them. Unable to climb back up, they hung on the safety line for 12 hours until a rescue helicopter picked them up.
The next day, the climbing route was obstructed by seracs (enormous and precarious ice columns) that seemed unnavigable. The mountaineers estimated they had about 2,000 feet to go to reach the summit. To bypass the seracs, they had to either climb a frozen cascade covered in icicles or attempt to ascend a loose rock wall. They chose the rock wall but abandoned the route when Yates fell and was only saved by his rope. Simpson led a climb up the ice wall, smashing five-foot-long icicles out of the way as he went. Yates was angry when they rained down on him, and an icicle cracked Simpson’s tooth, splitting his lip.
By four o’clock that afternoon, Simpson and Yates were 800 feet from the summit, and the sky indicated the approach of bad weather. Both men were concerned about the conditions on the final stretch, which was covered with unstable, snowy protrusions known as flutings, a notoriously dangerous feature of Peruvian mountains. Yates attempted to climb a gully between two 15-foot-high flutings. The climb took three hours, and as Simpson waited and watched, spindrift avalanches engulfed him. By the time he could follow Yates up, Simpson was dangerously cold. At 11 o’clock that night, they found a small cave to sleep in, 300 feet from the summit.
The next morning, Simpson and Yates reached the summit and took photographs. Simpson was elated but then felt a sense of anticlimax. As they prepared to descend by the North Ridge, it began to snow. Simpson and Yates also noted that the descent route looked more dangerous than anticipated with further flutings to navigate. By 2:30 in the afternoon, white-out conditions had disoriented them. While leading across a ridge, Yates fell through a cornice but managed to climb back to safety.
The opening chapters establish the setting as a key element of the story. The text emphasizes Simpson’s awe at the beauty of the Peruvian Andes and its calming effects, introducing the theme of The Relationship Between Humans and Nature. He reflects on his initially positive response to the landscape in his figurative comparison of the mountains to “extravagant castles of sugar icing” (14). This whimsical metaphor conveys his romanticizing of the mountains and his perception of them as magical. Simpson found the remoteness of the location particularly exciting, comparing it favorably to the Alps. His contented assertion that “no hordes of climbers, no helicopters, no rescue” (16) would disturb the calm later proved ironic when rescue was precisely what he required. He had yet to discover the unforgiving nature of the environment, which eventually became an antagonist and source of conflict.
Early in the text, the author creates a mood of lightheartedness and optimism. However, this tone gradually gives way to an atmosphere of menace and foreboding. The evening that Simpson and Yates spend playing cards and laughing in camp starkly contrasts with the traumatic experiences that lie ahead of them. Simpson uses foreshadowing throughout this section to create a sense of anticipation and dramatic tension, such as the group’s jokes about how Richard might profit from their photo if they failed to return. The author admits that the series of unsuccessful training climbs was “inauspicious” and begins to convey why these routes were, thus far, unclimbed. Simpson’s fall through a fissure and memory of a previous expedition when he was almost “hurled into the void” (48) foreshadow his later fall into a crevasse. All these details contribute to the impression that the expedition was ill-fated from the start. Although the story is grounded in reality, Simpson’s use of common fiction devices such as dramatic tension and foreshadowing helps make the text emotionally engaging.
In the rising action of this section, Simpson’s first-person narration gives events a sense of immediacy. The narrative’s emphasis on the challenge, excitement, and risk of the undertaking identifies the memoir as rooted in the adventure literature genre. In charting his physical and emotional journey, the author explores the psychological motivations and traits of mountaineers. His determination to summit Siula Grande via the West face represented a desire to be a pioneer in the mountaineering world, causing him to question whether he was driven by “egotism.” In addition, Simpson’s memory of a previous near-death experience only two years earlier reveals that he had an above-average propensity for risk-taking. His decision to embark on a remote climb without hope of being rescued juxtaposes the revelation that after the Alps accident, his life was saved because nearby people called a rescue helicopter. The juxtaposition of the two events underscores Simpson’s feelings of invincibility as a young man. The text emphasizes the adrenaline-fueled sensation seeking of mountaineering when the author describes his feeling of anticlimax only moments after reaching the summit of Siula Grande. Describing the “vicious circle” of the mountaineering impulse, he acknowledges its potentially self-destructive nature as each success leads to the urge to summit something “slightly harder, […] a bit more dangerous” (68). Simpson presents the activity as a hunger impossible to satiate.
The text portrays Simpson and Yates as similarly ambitious, their youth and confidence leading to their being insufficiently prepared for the unique challenges of the Peruvian Andes. Consequently, conditions are not as good as they had anticipated, and their climbs inevitably take longer than they expect. However, the text also conveys their contrasting personality traits. Simpson portrays Yates as his foil, expressing envy of his “carefree take-it-as-it-comes attitude” and observing his ability to enjoy life “without grumbling worries and doubts” (18). Meanwhile, Simpson notes how he expressed concerns and misgivings during the expedition. As the climb became increasingly challenging, the psychological dynamics of teamwork and camaraderie in extreme environments emerged. Tensions mounted as the strain of the expedition made the pair increasingly impatient with each other. The text thereby reveals how an unforgiving environment can test the limits of friendship as well as human endurance.
Plus, gain access to 8,800+ more expert-written Study Guides.
Including features:
Action & Adventure
View Collection
Appearance Versus Reality
View Collection
Earth Day
View Collection
Fate
View Collection
Fear
View Collection
Inspiring Biographies
View Collection
Mortality & Death
View Collection
Safety & Danger
View Collection
Science & Nature
View Collection
Teams & Gangs
View Collection